One of the Largest West Coast Bodies of Water Disappeared Over 100 Years Ago… and Now It’s Back

By: Lauren Fokas | Published: Feb 15, 2024

More than 100 years ago, a giant lake more than 100 miles long and 30 miles wide sat in what is now the San Joaquin Valley of Northern California.

Known as Tulare Lake, the body of water was drained in the 1850s by the California state government, but now, thanks to extreme and unexpected weather, it’s back.

Pa’ashi Lake

Long before California was a state, indigenous Americans lived on the land for thousands of years. The Tachi Yokut tribe resided around the San Joaquin Valley, and according to Vivian Underhill, a research fellow at Northeaster University, they called Tulare Lake “Pa’ashi.”

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Drawing from "Picturesque America; or, The Land We Live In, A Delineation by Pen and Pencil of the Mountains, Rivers, Lakes...with Illustrations on Steel and Wood” by Eminent American Artists" Vol. I, 1872

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Underhill also noted that “Pa’ashi” was formed by snow melting off the nearby Sierra Nevada mountains, and since there was “no natural outlet within the valley,” the water simply stayed.

The Complicated History of Lake Tulare

When colonists first arrived in Calfironia, Lake Tulare was still there. In fact, Underhill reported that “Fresno was a lakeside town” in the 1800s. Which is wildly hard to imagine for those who have visited the extremely dry city of Fresno over the past several decades.

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Sign that reads “Fresno, The Best Little City in the U.S.A. Van Ness Ave, Entrance”

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Essentially, the state of California decided to dry up Tulare Lake in order to “take public land and put it into private ownership.” Underhill explains, “’public land,’ that [was] historically indigenous land that the state of California blanket-proclaimed as ‘public.’”

New Residents Would Be Awarded Ownership if They Drained the Land

According to Underhill, “People could drain that land,” and “be granted ownership of parts of that land. So there was a big incentive for white settlers to start doing that work.”

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Aerial photograph of farmland in the San Joaquin Valley

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Often called “reclamation,” this process was, as we now know, a form of theft from indigenous residents. But in this case, they didn’t just steal their land; the settlers also eliminated a natural, thousands-of-years-old body of water.

Water from the Lake Was Used to Irrigate New Farms

At that time, the settlers built irrigation systems throughout the valley to water their new farms, and they used water from what once was Pa’ashi to do so.

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A circular irrigation system for growing hay and alfalfa is viewed from above and in close proximity to Tulare Lake

Source: George Rose/Getty Images

By 1890, the ancestral lake was gone, and while it has reappeared a few times over the past 130 years, in 2023, it returned in earnest for the first time .

Why Did Tulare Lake Reappear?

Meteorologists understand that Tulare Lake has returned for the first time in over a century due in large part to the excessive snowfall on the Sierra Nevada mountains last winter.

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The lake and snow-covered mountains are viewed from the Heavenly Ski Resort observation deck

Source: George Rose/Getty Images

Underhill explained, “California just got inundated with snow in the winter and then rain in the spring. If you have a rain and snow event, the snow melts really fast.”

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Some Farms Have Been Completely Flooded

Because the land under where the lake once was is now farmland, many of these fields have been completely submerged in water since the lake’s return.

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An aerial view of floodwaters inundating farmland in the region of the reemerging Tulare Lake

Source: Mario Tama/Getty Images

Some flooding protection built over the last century has ensured the lake will never return to its full size and safeguarded thousands of acres of fields.

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Many Homes within the San Joaquin Valley Were Destroyed

However, homes and businesses around farms have been completely ruined by the lake’s reappearance.

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In an aerial view, a car is left stranded in widespread flooding as a series of atmospheric river storms melts record amounts of snow in the Sierra Nevada Mountain, Tulare Lake

Source: David McNew/Getty Images

Communities of migrant workers who live in homes around the farms were the most affected, reported Underhill, saying that many of these workers have been displaced since the flood.

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The Return of Tulare Lake Is Both Beautiful and Detrimental

Underhill went on to explain, “Most of the news coverage about this time talked about it as catastrophic flooding. And I don’t want to disregard the personal and property losses that people experienced, but what was not talked about so much is that it wasn’t only an experience of loss, it was also an experience of resurgence.”

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Storm clouds hover over the snow-covered Sierra Nevada Mountains beyond a field of flowers on March 10, 2023, near Porterville, California

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And the local Tachi Yokut people certainly do see it as a gift from above. Underhill wrote, “The return of the lake has been just an incredibly powerful and spiritual experience. [The Tachi Yokut have] been holding ceremonies on the side of the lake.”

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Natural Wildlife Has Returned to the Once Barren San Joaquin Valley

Since the lake returned last year, the Tachi Yokut, as well as local ornithologists, have also noted that an incredible number of wetland birds have reappeared.

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The Salton Sea is on the migratory route of many bird species and serves as a habitat for survival

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Underhill explained, “The loss of that habitat has been a major issue in bird conservation and bird diversity,” but that “birds of all kinds—pelicans, hawks, waterbirds,” are once again gracing the sky.

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The Lake Benefits Humans as Well as Animals

It’s also important to note that while the return of the lake is undoubtedly a positive for the natural wildlife, it also benefits those living in the area.

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A sign reading 'Today's High: 115' is posted in South Mountain Park

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San Joaquin Valley can experience intense heat waves in the summer when the temperature is consistently above 100°F. However, Tulare Lake can help decrease air temperature by up to 20 degrees.

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“Tulare Lake Wants to Remain”

Vivian Underhill explained that, “This landscape has always been one of lakes and wetlands, and our current irrigated agriculture is just a century-long blip in this larger geologic history. This was not actually a flood. This is a lake returning.”

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In an aerial view, earth movers work to raise the Corcoran Levee in response to flood waters along the reemerging Tulare Lake

Source: Mario Tama/Getty Images

And finally, “At a certain point, I think it would behoove the state of California to realize that Tulare Lake wants to remain.”

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